This next post will be a review of Valentino's Fall 2012 Ready-to-Wear collection. Designers Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Picciol's latest show was inspired by folk-costumes and native-dresses, but these inspirations were alluded to in a subtle way while still keeping the label's characteristic feminine silhouettes. The show began with black leather, something that most places would take in a goth or minimalist direction, but Valentino kept the balance well. "The cape, culottes, and white shirt, an all-leather jumpsuit, and a long, narrow black trench coat might have jolted anyone who’s mentally consigned Valentino as the home of old-world fragile femininity...The delicacy is in the super-fine napa leather (which is as pliable as fabric) and in the seams, which are joined together not by any old sewing machine, but by means of silk-macramé handwork" (Sarah Mower for Vogue). Style.com agrees that the black leather had made a positive impact, "In fact, black leather gave the duo's by-now familiar dresses and jumpsuits a new edge; it was characteristically softened with macramé seams and passementerie details" (Nicole Phelps). Next up was cultural patterns incorporated into trench coats and feminine dresses. Then came a wave of ivory silk and lace, then simple black and red silhouettes. After that more detail and decoration was added to black dresses and clothes in a camel color. The grande finale was more cultural gowns. In my opinion, the show did not have a strong common theme (how do black leather, folk-dresses, and delicate gowns all fit together?) but each individual piece was ingenious and excellently crafted. Style.com said something which I agree: "Daywear was the distinct emphasis here with smart-looking frog-closure coats..." (Nicole Phelps), however I still think that there were some lovely evening pieces. Overall, Valentino had a great showing with this Fall Ready-to-Wear show, combining their classic romanticism with current fashion trends.

This dress is a perfect example of the principles of the collection:

Dolce & Gabbana

For my first post, I'm choosing to review one of the most recent fashion shows (yesterday, in fact): Dolce and Gabbana, an established fashion house that never fails to present unique collections that are true to their Italian heritage. Their latest show was for Fall 2012 Ready-to-Wear, and it received glowing reviews. 

The show was in Milan, where "Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana set the stage for their latest show with chandeliers festooned in real flowers and vines along with an enormous gilded mirror that was propped at the end of the runway. It was unabashedly lavish, but it had nothing on the duo's new collection, which was dripping in gold bullion." (Style.com) This particular collection was inspired by Dolce's Sicilian heritage as he "was born in a town in the center of Sicily and, as an infant, slept in his father’s tailoring workshop as his parents outfitted the local congregation for high days and holidays." (Vogue) 

The main themes of the collection seemed to be slightly more old fashioned, drawing from a religious Italian style. Common materials were black lace and metallic gold thread. Pieces included dresses, capes, and skirtsuits with lots of embroidery. Velvet and needlepoint work gave the collection a somewhat luxurious feeling.

As Style.com's Nicole Phelps put it: "Dolce and Gabbana pushed its vocabulary with positive results, but it wasn't unfamiliar enough to dampen the religious devotion of its fans."
 

This piece is a great example of the entire theme of the collection: more conservative, and definitely Italian. I love the skirt and cape-shaped top, as well as the lace knee high socks and sleeves peeking out. The contrast of the more edgy boots looks great with the rest of the outfit. (Photo from Style.com)